
When people ask me to choose a favourite from all the places I’ve lived in, they’re puzzled or surprised at my response. “Guyana, is that in Africa?” or “But, didn’t you live in Australia...?” I imagined I would one day write a book to dispel this unfamiliarity but Rahul Bhattacharya has beaten me to it. It’d be hard to pack in praise about the place even from someone who leans towards it; ten day power cuts, tap water the colour of cola, battalions of blood sucking insects, gently rotting houses, leeched TV programs, violent crime, muddy seas and nothing to do but while away the time. Yet, I have such great memories of the place; catching eels in the storm water drains, lounging in the perpetually empty pool at a faded expat club, hanging out at the Sea Wall near the erstwhile Pegasus hotel (now the Le Meridian), driving out to the Corentyne and waving to the Surinamese on the other side of the riparian border, feeding the gullible manatees outside the zoo, bbqs from the back of a pick-up at the National Park, those curious names - Werk-en-rust, Albouystown, La Bonne Intention, Parfait Harmonie or the smell of my locality, Queenstown, after the rains, once full of moneyed families, now only their decaying old wooden mansions remain.
I was perhaps too young to notice but the quirkiest thing about the Guyana was its populace. As one of the narrator’s neighbours tells him, “We got Blackman, redman, buck, chinee, coolie, dougla all lashin each other.” An unhurried, Naipaulian observation of these idiosyncratic living vestiges of history, geography and circumstance form the soul of The Sly Company of People Who Care. The book appears to be a travelogue in whose earliest chapters the author had a change of heart. Indeed in an interview to The Telegraph, Bhattacharya says “I was not sure what form the book would take but as I wrote the first few paragraphs it became clear it would be a novel because I was telling so many lies.”
In the novel’s first section, we discover the narrator, an Indian cricket journalist who returns to Guyana after visiting it briefly to report on a match. He encounters Baby, a porknocker – a gold or diamond prospector – and makes off with him into the deep, unpopulated interior in search of diamonds. What starts as a rustic excursion disintegrates into something less cosy when Baby reveals himself to be more than just a jovial purveyor of bush tales. Bhattacharya is sharp and detailed but never wordy. He paints simple but vibrant scenes. “The sky was a brilliant blue, the air was yellow. The trail was red, the savannah was straw-brown rather than green, and the first sight of any other colour came hours later at an unexpected restaurant in Annai, where on the back of a parked pick-up a fresh head of cow glistened in a pool of fluorescent crimson.” At the National Library, the narrator discovers a pamphlet praising the Dutch civilising mission in the country where “the first three words had been struck out by a blotted, once garish, purple nib. They had been replaced by a single word. SLY. In the margin a sentence had been started, they think like they care – and abandoned due to excessive blotting.” It’s this subtlety of non-judgemental observation that makes this book so refreshing.
The second part of the book changes tack and the feel is that of a feature by a foreign correspondent than a novelist. The narrator explores stories in the mainly Indian villages along the coast and teams up with Ramotar Seven Curry, a professional wedding guest and bandies with Uncle Latch, his stoic former neighbour. In the last part, there is another journey, this one to neighbouring Venezuela with a companion – Jankey or Jan as she calls herself, an upwardly mobile coolie country gal. Here, the writing is introspective rather than seeking and one senses the narrator’s despondency at separation from the inertia of a country that’s not his own. So much so, that the sight of a Guyanese section in a provincial market provokes something stronger than just plain vanilla nostalgia. “There was something in the scenes. The Venezuelan shed, the song from Love Story, the beats. Cooliepeople milling about in coolie ways. The shabby, sparkless dressing, the uninspiring hairstyles, the flat resignation in those eyes that I knew from India to Guyana. The packets of Guyanese curry powder and Guyanese chowmein and bottles of brandless coconut oil, the stacks of Hindi discs. Twice removed diaspora, twice-removed attachments, perhaps twice-strong, the absurdity and obviousness of so many journeys, so many displacements.”
The strongest element of The Sly Company of People Who Care is its language. Bhattacharya embraces the local dialect in such a genuine way that words and sentences are enveloped by the inflection and grammar of an insular world. In fact, by the end of the book, my own knowledge of Creole was reawakening – s’trut! Of the two things that I thought could have been rendered better, the first is possibly the result of Bhattacharya’s day job. I think he tried to fit far too many and often unnecessary facts and current events into the book. At one point, I thought he was showing off but then I realized he was just being an overzealous reporter. The other weak bit is his failure (for the most part) to let the narrator reveal his faults, resulting in a somewhat lopsided image of a plucky adventurer rather than a somewhat insecure observer. The journey is more without than within. Perhaps, this is intentional or perhaps, I wasn’t perceptive enough to pick it up. In any case, The Sly Company of People Who Care was an excellent read, the best so far this year and I am really elated that it’s by an Indian writer.